Provençal Cod Stew with Fennel, Saffron and Yogurt Rouille

Method

1. Bloom the saffron first: crumble the threads between your fingers into a small cup, add 2 tbsp of the white wine and let it steep while you prep. Within 10 minutes the liquid turns deep amber and smells of honey and hay — this is the flavour backbone of the pot.

2. Warm 1 tbsp olive oil in a wide, heavy saucepan or shallow casserole over medium heat. Add the fennel and leek with a good pinch of salt. Sweat for 10–12 minutes, stirring every couple of minutes, until the slices collapse and turn translucent with a few gold edges. You want softness, not colour — if they start browning, drop the heat.

3. Push the vegetables to the side, add the sliced garlic, crushed fennel seeds, smoked paprika and cayenne to the bare pan. Stir for 45 seconds until fragrant and the garlic smells sweet rather than sharp — do not let it brown or the stew turns bitter.

4. Pour in the remaining white wine plus the saffron soaking liquid. Simmer briskly for 2–3 minutes until the raw alcohol smell disappears and the liquid has reduced by about half.

5. Add the tomatoes, fish stock, orange zest, bay leaf and thyme. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cook uncovered for 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens enough to hold a trail behind a spoon. Taste and season with salt and pepper — it should be a touch saltier now than you want the finished stew, because the fish will dilute it.

6. Stir in the cannellini beans and let them heat through for 2 minutes. They thicken the broth and give it a creamy, almost velvety body without cream.

7. Lower the heat so the surface barely trembles. Nestle the cod chunks into the sauce in a single layer, spoon a little broth over the top, cover and poach for 6–8 minutes. The fish is done when it registers 63°C at the centre and separates into opaque, pearly flakes under light pressure — check at 6 minutes, since cod goes from silky to cottony fast.

8. While the fish poaches, whisk the Greek yogurt with the grated garlic, lemon juice, a pinch of salt and a few drops of olive oil into a loose, ivory rouille. Toast the baguette slices, brush with the remaining 1 tsp olive oil, and rub each one with the cut side of a garlic clove if you have a spare.

9. Take the pot off the heat and rest it, covered, for 3 minutes so the fish firms and the broth settles. Discard the bay leaf and thyme stems. Ladle into shallow bowls, spoon a generous dollop of rouille on top, scatter with parsley and serve with the toast for dragging through the saffron-stained broth.