Moroccan-Spiced Roasted Cauliflower with Chickpeas, Bulgur and Lemon Tahini Yogurt

Method

1. Heat the oven to 220°C (425°F) with a rack in the upper third. Line one very large rimmed baking sheet with parchment — if your tray is small, use two, because crowded florets steam instead of browning.

2. Break the cauliflower into florets roughly 4 cm across, cutting down through the stem so each piece has at least one flat face. That flat face is what presses against the hot tray and turns deep amber; ragged, stemless florets just dry out.

3. In a large bowl, whisk 1 1/2 tbsp of the olive oil with the cumin, coriander, smoked paprika, cinnamon, turmeric, cayenne, 1/2 tsp salt and the black pepper. Add the cauliflower and toss hard with your hands until every crevice is coated — the florets should look dusty ochre, not glossy or wet. Spread them cut-side down in a single layer.

4. Roast for 18 minutes. You want to hear a faint sizzle when you open the door and see the undersides blistered brown. Meanwhile, rub the chickpeas dry between two layers of kitchen towel — any surface moisture traps steam and you will get soft peas, not crisp ones. Toss them with the remaining 1/2 tbsp oil, a pinch of the spice mix and the 2 smashed garlic cloves.

5. Pull the tray out, turn the florets with a spatula, and scatter the chickpeas and smashed garlic into the gaps. Return to the oven for 12–15 minutes, until the cauliflower edges are mahogany and the chickpeas rattle dryly when you shake the pan.

6. While that finishes, put the bulgur in a heatproof bowl with a pinch of salt, pour over the 120 ml boiling water, cover tightly with a plate and leave 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork — the grains should separate, not clump — then fold through half the parsley, the lemon zest and 1 tsp lemon juice.

7. Make the sauce: whisk the tahini with the yogurt, grated garlic, 1 tbsp lemon juice and 1/4 tsp salt. It will seize and look grainy and broken — that is normal. Add cold water 1 tbsp at a time, whisking, until it loosens and pours like heavy cream, about 3–4 tbsp. Taste; it should be sharp and nutty, not flat.

8. Toast the almonds in a dry pan over medium heat for 2 minutes, until they smell warm and nutty and are one shade darker. Spoon the bulgur onto plates, pile on the cauliflower and chickpeas, swoosh the tahini yogurt alongside, then finish with the almonds, remaining parsley and cilantro.