Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare — Shrimp and Mussel Pasta in White Wine

Method

1. Step 1 — Mise en place: Rinse the mussels under cold running water and pull off any wiry beards. Tap each one on the counter; if it stays open, discard it. Peel the shrimp, keeping the shells in a small bowl and the bodies chilled. Slice the garlic paper-thin, halve the tomatoes, chop the parsley, and zest the lemon before juicing it.

2. Step 2 — Pasta water: Bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil in a wide pot. Add 30 g salt — it should taste like a well-seasoned soup. Keep it at a bare boil while you build the sauce.

3. Step 3 — Shellfish oil: Set a large sauté pan or deep skillet over medium-low heat with 1 tbsp of the olive oil and the reserved shrimp shells. Press them flat with a spatula and cook for 2–3 minutes. You are listening for a gentle crackle and watching the shells shift from grey to coral; the oil should smell toasted and briny, like a beach at low tide.

4. Step 4 — Aromatics: Push the shells to one side, add the garlic and chili flakes, and cook 30–40 seconds until the garlic turns pale gold at the edges — never brown, or it will taste bitter. Lift out the shells with tongs, pressing them against the pan to squeeze the flavoured oil back in, then discard.

5. Step 5 — Deglaze: Pour in the white wine. It will hiss and steam hard. Simmer for 2 minutes, scraping the pan base, until the raw alcohol sharpness disappears and the liquid has reduced by about half — sniff the steam; when it stops stinging your nose, it is ready.

6. Step 6 — Tomato base: Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Cook 4–5 minutes, pressing them with the back of a spoon until the skins split and release their juice. The sauce should look loose and slightly pulpy, not dry.

7. Step 7 — Steam the mussels: Tip the mussels into the pan, cover with a lid, and steam for 3–4 minutes, shaking once. They are done the moment the shells gape wide and the meat is firm and orange-white. Discard any that stay shut. Lift the mussels into a bowl and set aside, leaving the sauce in the pan.

8. Step 8 — Pasta: Drop the spaghetti into the boiling water and cook 1 minute short of the package's al dente time. Before draining, scoop out 250 ml of the cloudy, starch-thickened pasta water.

9. Step 9 — Emulsify: Add the drained pasta to the pan with 100 ml of the pasta water. Toss over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the sauce turns opaque and creamy and coats each strand. Add splashes more pasta water if it tightens — the starch is what makes the sauce cling instead of pooling.

10. Step 10 — Shrimp and finish: Nestle the shrimp into the pasta in a single layer and cook 2 minutes per side, just until they turn opaque and curl into a loose C, reaching 63°C at the thickest part. Return the mussels to warm through, about 30 seconds. Pull the pan off the heat.

11. Step 11 — Serve: Off the heat, stir in the parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, the remaining ½ tbsp olive oil, and the black pepper. Toss once, taste for salt, and divide between three warm bowls, spooning the pan juices over the top. Serve immediately — this dish waits for no one.